I am starting this blog with some history which, hopefully, will make our trip to Malaysia more understandable. Singapore is the most southern tip of the Malaysian Peninsula and separated from Malaysia by a narrow waterway called the Straits of Jahor Our adventure began with a bus ride from Singapore to Kuala Lampur, the capital of the country. It is a country of eleven states two of which are located on the island of Borneo about 300 miles at the closest point from the Malaysian Peninsula.
Malaysia, unlike Singapore, is a Muslim state. When someone describes themselves as Malaysian they are almost always saying they are Muslim. If they are Hindu, Buddhist or Chinese they will say they are from Malaysia. Religion has been a defining factor for the country since the 15th century when the religion was brought to the peninsula by Arab and Indian traders. The Muslim presence is most evident because all women cover their heads with scrafs called hijabs and the routine ‘call to prayer’ sounded from the mosques. Wearing a hajib is mandatory for Muslim women when in public.
Religion was a defining factor in the separation of Singapore and Malaysia after WWII. Since the early 19th century the British were a major colonial power with three major outposts on the peninsula – Singapore, Malacca and Penang on the west coast of the peninsula. The peninsula was a major source of natural rubber and tin which was important during the industrialization of Western Europe.
Malaysia gained its independence from Great Britain in 1957. At that time Singapore was included. However, the Malay government wanted to show preference to Muslims and which went against the Chinese idea of meritocracy for all citizens. Singapore subsequently broke off (or as the Malaysians say “was thrown out” of Malaysia). Since independence in 1965 Singapore has become an incredible juggernaut economically and educationally because of the leadership(paternalistic and dictatorial) of Lee Kaun Yew, considered the founder of Singapore.
The difference between the two countries is remarkable considering they are only a few miles apart. Malaysia is still a third world country based largely on agriculture. It is the second largest producer of palm oil in the world. The oil is used in cooking and non-cooking with the majority going into bio fuel. Malaysia is also a major fossil petroleum producer, as well.
Like Singapore all types of food can be found in Malaysia. Malaysian food tends to be spicy and with more curry than Chinese food. Malaysian food is always prepared halal which means there must not be any pork products present. Even dishes and eating utensils are kept separate.
In Penang one of our best meals we had was in an Indonesian restaurant owned by a friend of Andrew’s relative. We would never have found it without his recommendation. In almost all hotels a full breakfast is included so our practice was to have breakfast and skip lunch. In Kaula Lampur, Penang and Ipoh we often ate in roadside food stalls. The food is safe but the setting is completely different from what we experience in the west. Two dishes which are prevalent and delicious are asam laksa and cindol. Asam laksa is a spicy soup with fish cake, seafood, bean sprouts, pepper and is authentic only if it has a garnish of banana flower. Chendol is an crushed ice dessert made with green rice flour noodles, red beans and raw brown sugar syrup poured over the crushed ice.
The reason you come to Malaysia is not sightseeing as much as eating and experiencing the unique Muslim culture. Observance of Islam is not as strict in Malaysia as the Middle East but still very prevalent. You have to be prepared for things not working perfectly like they do in Singapore like elevators and escalators. Public transport is reliable and clean.
We arrived in Cameron Highlands by bus from Ipoh climbing up to this 5000 foot garden in the sky. The region is one of the most productive agricultural areas in the country. We drove by thousands of covered shelters growing produce. Because of the moderate temperatures and plentiful rain fruits, vegetables and flowers flourish.
My reason for wanting to come to the region was the mysterious disappearance of Jim Thompson, American entrepreneur who revitalized the Thai silk industry. His fabrics became world famous after they were used in the movie The King and I. He was one of the most famous Americans in Asia after WWII. When Thompson was on vacation in the Cameron Highlands in 1967 he disappeared and was never seen again even after one of the most extensive manhunts in history. The mystery of his disappearance was never been solved.
Reaching the Cameron Highlands is by way of a winding two hour drive up steep hills and through deep valleys. Cameron Highlands is a destination for Western tourists including large groups of young trekers. I wanted to visit one of the many gardens open to the public. We found that the tours were sold out. I was disappointed but Andrew discovered the Agrotechology Park Mardi Cameron Highlands. We were able to walk through a large city park past a school to reach the park only thirty minutes from our hotel. For the entrance fee of 5 reggits($1.25 US) we found an absolute gem. There was every type of plant grown in the region. The farm was established by the British in 1925 as a research station to start the first Malaysia tea farm in 1927. The tea factory is still in use.
As Andrew and I were in an area where plants are sold a young fellow came up to us and told us he was the promoter of the garden. His name was Amra. He was twelve years old. He is in the sixth grade. English is a taught as a mandatory second language after Malay. This young guy spoke outstanding English. Interacting in English with young native people has been one of my great experiences when traveling around the world. Often when young people meet a Western some want to practice their English.
There are demonstration plots for strawberries, beans, tomatoes, cabbage and corn. Flowers that I think of as annuals grow as bushes. My favorite summer flower the lantana grows extremely large in this climate. The herb garden was equally amazing with rosemary, thyme, basil and parsley growing as full shrubs. The hillside is covered with tea plants.
After continuing our tour of the garden we ran into Amra again. He wanted us to come visit his father’s stall in the commercial area of the park. We did and found that his father and business partner were selling condiments to accompany one of our favorite dishes, rojak, which is made with cucumber, jicama and pineapple favored with a dark sugar syrup sesame seeds and crushed peanuts. Amra’s father fixed a rojak for us. It was delicious. We bought their sauce to bring home.
After finishing our rojak we talked with Amra and some of friends his age. He was the interpreter since they were not nearly as competent in English as he was. His father told us Amra was the highest in his class in English. Amar’s interest was speaking and translating. According to Andrew, his Chinese was proficient for someone his age. That type of wonderful cultural experience can never be planned.
We traveled from Cameron Highlands on a full day’s bus ride to Malacca. Malacca has been a major trading destination since the Portuguese gained a trade concession from a local sultan in the early 16th century. Control was rested from the Portuguese by the Dutch who were in control until Great Britain took control in the early 18th century. Malacca was only one of many trading destinations of the Chinese in the early 15th century. An early Chinese admirals to come to Malaysia and Malacca was named Zheng He. My Andrew is named after him. Andrew Cheng Ho is Andrew’s full name.
For our last stop on our adventure the weather did not cooperate but we were able to shop. I had asked to have a seafood meal for our last night of our adventure. Andrew took me to the Portuguese fishing village which has been populated by Malaysian Catholics since the time that Portuguese missionaries came to Malacca four hundred years ago. The food was delicious.
We have returned to Singapore and will be there for another month. I don’t plan another blog unless something really unusual happens. I plan another blog covering our trip to Wisconsin in about three months.
lloydchengtrip 
Dear Longtime Friend, John I enjoyed your travel update. My wife Vashti and I plan on returning to Asia, and your insights into Malaysia ensure we’ll head there. Your writing is through, and I hope a travel publication will pay you for it. In loving friendship, Bill
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